How to Grade Pokemon Cards: PSA vs BGS vs CGC (Which Should You Use?)

Grading is one of the fastest ways to level up your Pokemon investing, and one of the fastest ways to light money on fire if you do it wrong.

The goal of this guide is simple: help you pick the right grading company (PSA vs BGS vs CGC), understand what the grades actually mean, and know when grading is worth it.

If you are brand-new to the hobby, start here first: The Complete Beginner’s Guide to Pokemon Card Investing.

What grading actually does (and why investors care)

When you grade a card, you are paying a third-party company to:

• Authenticate the card (catch counterfeits and alterations)
• Assign a condition grade based on surface, corners, edges, and centering
• Seal it in a tamper-evident slab

Investors care because grading can:

• Increase buyer trust (especially online)
• Create more consistent pricing buckets (PSA 10 vs PSA 9 vs raw)
• Reduce disputes and returns
• Sometimes add a massive premium for top-population grades

But grading is not magic. If the card is not strong enough to grade high, or the grading fees eat your margin, the “upgrade” turns into a loss.

PSA vs BGS vs CGC in one sentence

• PSA: Best resale liquidity and the market’s default for most modern and vintage Pokemon.
• BGS (Beckett): Tougher grading feel, subgrades, and the premium “Black Label” ceiling.
• CGC: Strong option for collectors who value consistency, good presentation, and often competitive pricing.

If you want the simplest answer: PSA is the safest default for Pokemon investors because it tends to be the easiest to sell at strong prices.

Quick comparison table (Pokemon-focused)

Turnaround times and fees change constantly, so always verify current pricing directly on each company’s submission page before sending.

Understanding the grade scale (what matters most)

PSA grades

PSA uses a 1 to 10 scale. In practice:

• PSA 10 (Gem Mint) is the gold standard for modern cards.
• PSA 9 (Mint) is common even on clean pack-fresh cards.
• PSA 8 and below start to behave like “nice binder” cards unless it is vintage.

The market gap between PSA 9 and PSA 10 is often the entire profit thesis.

BGS grades and subgrades

BGS assigns:

• An overall grade (1 to 10)
• Optional subgrades for centering, corners, edges, and surface

The important labels:

• BGS 10 Black Label: 10 in all four subgrades. Very rare. Often carries an enormous premium.
• BGS 10 (Pristine): still elite, but not Black Label.

If you have a card that is truly flawless and perfectly centered, BGS can be a “ceiling play.”

CGC grades (and why people like them)

CGC also uses a 1 to 10 scale, with higher-end designations like:

• CGC 10 Gem Mint
• CGC 10 Perfect (their “top of top”)

Collector sentiment on CGC has improved over time, but pricing can still trail PSA for many Pokemon cards. That can create opportunities if you buy CGC slabs cheap, crack and cross, or simply hold if the market tightens.

The real question: should you grade this card?

Before you even choose PSA/BGS/CGC, answer this:

1) Is there enough value upside?

A simple rule that keeps beginners safe:

• If a card is worth $20 raw, grading usually makes no sense.
• If it is worth $80 to $150 raw, grading can make sense if you have a strong shot at a 10.
• If it is worth $200+ raw, grading is often worth considering even at a 9, depending on fees.

Grading costs include more than the advertised fee:

• Shipping to and from the grader
• Insurance
• Supplies (semi-rigids, team bags, etc.)
• Opportunity cost (your money is locked up)

2) What grade are you realistically going to get?

If you do not pre-grade properly, you are gambling.

Here is the honest reality for modern:

• Many pack-fresh cards are PSA 9 because of centering or tiny surface issues.
• Getting a 10 consistently requires disciplined selection.

3) Can you actually sell it?

Liquidity matters.

If your goal is to flip, PSA often wins because buyers search “PSA 10” first and comps are more consistent. For “hold for years,” CGC and BGS can still be excellent.

When PSA is the right choice

Choose PSA when:

• You want the easiest resale path with the largest buyer pool
• You are grading mainstream modern chase cards (Charizard, Eeveelutions, Pikachu, etc.)
• You need clean, obvious comps for pricing

PSA is also the best default if you do not want to explain your slab to a buyer. That matters more than people admit.

When BGS is the right choice

Choose BGS when:

• You believe the card is truly elite and you want the chance at Black Label
• You care about subgrades (useful for buyers and for your own confidence)
• You are building a high-end modern showcase portfolio

BGS makes the most sense for:

• Extremely clean modern alt arts / SIRs
• Cards with very strong centering (a common PSA 10 killer)

If you are not realistically chasing Pristine or Black Label territory, BGS can be a tougher value proposition because the market may not reward mid grades the same way.

When CGC is the right choice

Choose CGC when:

• You want a strong grader with good presentation and often competitive fees
• You are grading for long-term collecting, not just flipping
• You find CGC slabs priced below what you believe they should be

There is also a practical investor angle: if CGC pricing is discounted versus PSA for the same grade “tier,” you might be able to buy CGC, then cross-grade to PSA later if the spread is favorable.

How to pre-grade your cards at home (the simple process)

You do not need a lab. You need consistency.

Tools

• Bright desk lamp (white light)
• Microfiber cloth
• Penny sleeves + semi-rigid card holders
• Optional: 10x loupe

Step-by-step

1. Centering: look at border thickness left vs right, top vs bottom. Bad centering is the #1 modern 10 killer.
2. Corners: check for whitening, dings, tiny bends.
3. Edges: run your eyes along the edge for nicks.
4. Surface: tilt the card under light. Look for print lines, scratches, roller marks, dents.

If you spot a surface dent, do not grade it unless the raw value is already high and you accept a lower grade.

Common grading mistakes (that cost real money)

Grading everything you pull

This is the classic beginner move. Most cards are not worth grading. A binder is fine. A top loader is fine. Save grading for cards where the math works.

Not accounting for fees and taxes

If you sell graded cards, platform fees matter (eBay, TCGPlayer). Taxes matter. Shipping supplies matter. All of that comes out of your profit.

Ignoring rotation and reprint risk

Modern card prices can dip hard if the set gets reprinted.

If you are grading modern, keep an eye on macro timing. Our Pokemon Card Market Overview: February 2026 goes deeper into what is driving demand and supply this year.

Sending cards unprotected

Use penny sleeves + semi-rigids. Do not use top loaders unless the company explicitly recommends them.

A practical decision framework (what I would do)

If you want a clean rule set:

You are flipping modern chase cards

• Aim for PSA 10
• Do not submit cards you think will be 9s unless the 9 still has strong premium

You have a perfectly centered, flawless modern card

• Consider BGS for the ceiling outcome

You are collecting and want consistent, clean slabs

• CGC is a strong option

You are unsure

• Default to PSA

Final thoughts

Grading is not just “make card worth more.” It is a business decision.

Pick the company that matches your goal (liquidity vs ceiling vs value), pre-grade aggressively, and only submit when the math works.

If you want more actionable ideas for what to buy, check: 5 Undervalued Pokemon Cards Worth Buying in February 2026.

This is educational content about the Pokemon card market, not financial advice. Always verify current submission fees and turnaround estimates directly with PSA, BGS, and CGC before sending cards.